The GREEN HORSE - sustainable horsekeeping

In the February/March 05 issue of The Green Horse you will find the following articles:

Talking Point and Information Exchange
Using Trails by Julie Fiedler, Horse SA
Secondhand Tractor Shopping by Liz Tollarzo
Growing Equine Herbs - Raspberry by Fiona Adams
Deeds, Steeds and Weeds - Green Worm Control; Hay Transport Safety
Poplars by Nicola Field
Wild Horse Capture - WA
Grey Water Solutions by Karina Thullesen
Inoculating Wattles
Pasture Preservation by Chris Ferreira and Tracey Bell

Secondhand Tractor Shopping

by Liz Tollarzo

Combining your property needs with availability and budget



Becoming an owner of small acreage is an exciting time but often one aspect of property ownership is overlooked, and that is the ongoing role of maintaining, improving and generally upgrading the property. Paying for contractors to do firebreaks, slash pasture, spread fertiliser, scarify, move and spread sand and dig holes for fences can be a drain on the budget. An alternative option is to purchase a tractor and do the work yourself. As this purchase will be one of the most important decisions in developing and working an acreage, it will pay to select the machine with great care and consideration.

While a shiny, new tractor may be on the wish list, in reality, for the majority of land owners a second-hand tractor is the most economical option. Before purchase, consider the size of the property and determine what the primary use of the machine will be, as this will influence the final selection.

USE-BY DATE
Age is of no concern with tractors, as long as they are kept in good condition. In fact, the older the tractor the less complicated parts they have – which usually means that less can go wrong, and also makes it cheaper and easier to fix and maintain.

It is a major bonus to the purchaser if the prospective tractor has been kept in a shed, as a shedded tractor is usually in much better condition than the neglected one left down the paddock.
When a tractor has been kept outside check the original owners have at least been covering the exhaust pipe with a tin, or similar, to protect against condensation, which can damage the engine.

The life of a tractor can be prolonged if given adequate attention - including checking all linkages and grease nipples are well maintained and the engine’s water and oil are at correct levels. Check the petrol tank is full, as if it has been kept full regularly this would help prevent condensation, which can cause rust in the tank. Clean petrol helps the engine to run smoother - less wear and tear. Water in the oil of the engine and/or gearbox will often show as being creamy white in colour, and left unchecked can cause rust in the internal workings. If in any doubt as to the overall condition of a prospective tractor it is advisable to have a mechanic experienced with tractors give it a ‘pre-purchase vet check’ before signing the cheque.

SIZE DOES MATTER
The size of the property will help to decide the size and make of the tractor most suitable, but for most 10 to 30 acre properties, tractors such as the Massey Fergerson, International, Ford, Kubota or Fiat are reliable, multi-purpose workers.

Tractors around the size of the Chamberlain are really more suited to larger properties (around 100 acres) as, although they have a great reputation, they are not as manoeuvrable as some of the smaller tractors and generally have a poor turning circle, which is unsuitable for small acreages.

The little old grey Ferguson (‘Fergi’) is a very useful compact tractor for small properties, being a petrol four cylinder engine it is very cost effective and can do all the jobs of the larger ones. A possible drawback of most ‘Fergis’ is the thin front tyres. These require a careful approach in sandy soils where they can become bogged, however this can be solved with some adaptations. With a little cutting and a spot of welding it is possible to replace the original wheels with F100 or landcruiser rims and tyres!

Other adaptations may be required on some models, for instance when using grader blades or ploughs on a Ferguson tractor, it is very difficult to adjust and maintain the level of the blades when moving because of the up/down lever. Fitting a wheel to the implements will quickly and easily solve this rather annoying problem by keeping it at the correct level.

The Massey 35 was available in petrol from the 1950s, and diesel in the early 1960s, and the many models all have a reputation of reliability. The Fordson tractors were made by Ford in the 1950s and 1960s and are still readily available. At around the 40 – 50 horse power these are powerful, hard working and built to last. Parts for the Massey, International, Ford and Fiat and most other popular tractors are all readily available from agricultural tractor suppliers. The question of whether parts are readily available is a very important one when selecting your tractor.

The Japanese Kubota is an effective and useful tractor and, although only available in diesel, these tractors range from 14 to 153 horsepower, allowing property owners to select the most appropriate size for their acres. For example, a 16 horse power Kubota would be appropriate for a 20 acre property. Kubota ‘add-ons’ include a wide assortment of implements and attachments, sufficient to satisfy any tractor lover. When buying a Kubota privately ensure it has an Australian compliance plate, guaranteeing no problem with parts and service. If buying from an authorised Kubota dealer it will have one. Unfortunately, if it does not have a compliance plate, it is probably fully imported and parts will be nearly impossible to obtain.

ADD-ONS
Some tractors will have a three point linkage system that allows implements to be attached. A rear bucket that attaches via the three point linkage, is useful for moving items such as gravel, woodchips or sand. In situations where the load needs to be lifted high, a front bucket may be required. For even more control when lifting high loads a true front end loader would fit the bill. These have hydraulics that allow the bucket to be lifted and gradually tilted to empty the load in a more precise operation. These are an expensive option and driving them safely takes some practice. Front end loader buckets can be purchased separately to fit on most existing tractors, and this may be the more cost effective option instead of buying a replacement tractor or frontend loader.

PETROL V DIESEL
The decision of petrol versus diesel is not really all that difficult. The petrol tractors work well and would suit a smaller property where they are going to be used for light, consistent work where they run often. for short periods of time. At times where the tractor will be working all day long or on a larger property, the diesel, being built heavier and able to handle the higher demand, would be a better buy.

Implements such as buckets, carry-alls, ploughs, grader blades, rollers and, scarifiers work off the three point linkages, however slashers, super spreaders and rotary hoes also incorporate the power take-off on the tractor. It is worth checking that the tractor has these before buying, as they may not necessarily be part of the deal. Only the Fergi requires a special attachment to be purchased to use a slasher or rotary hoe. The other major makes of tractors will run these implements immediately upon purchasing them.

Safety and registration.
If buying a new or second hand tractor from a dealer, in most states they are required by law to have a “ROPS’ (Roll Over Protection System) cab or rollbar. This is simply a roll bar, which will prevent the tractor from crushing the driver in the event of a roll-over. If buying privately, there is no requirement for a rollbar to be fitted, it is up to the purchaser to ensure safety devices are installed. If the tractor will be used in, or as part of a business, then Worksafe in most states require an ‘ROPS’ device to be fitted. It is also worth enquiring regarding possible government rebates.

If planning to use the new tractor on the road, even moving from one property to another, it is necessary by law to have the tractor licenced. The State Licensing Authority will instruct you on how to proceed as the licence fees often depends on the weight of the tractor itself. It may even be required to be licenced as a farm vehicle.

If you know what you are looking for and are willing to spend the time to look around, there are always bargains to be found when buying a tractor. Secondhand tractors vary greatly in price, however as a rough guide they range from approx. $1500 for a small Ferguson through to $8000 for a larger Massey, with many variations in-between. When working out a budget, remember that implements will add to the cost, as will safety devices not already fitted.

After purchasing your second hand tractor be sure to obtain driving instruction from the previous owner or dealer and ask how to use the necessary implements, correct maintenance procedures and important safety issues. Remember, if you look after your tractor it will work ‘forever’!

Poplars

by Nicola Field

Poplars prove the old adage that one man’s trash can be another man’s treasure. Grown plantation-style in the US and Canada, the fast growing poplar has been favoured by landowners both here and overseas, for use as a windbreak and for creating ‘avenue’ driveways. But like another northern hemisphere import – the willow - poplars can be extremely invasive in rural areas, and are regarded as an especially destructive weed when found near waterways.

The main types of poplar – White poplar (Populus alba) and Lombardy poplar (Poplar nigra var. italica), are vigorous growers, and while the seed is short-lived, cuttings sucker and take root easily. The poplar’s seed capsules are covered with white, cotton-like hairs from which the tree derives the ‘cottonwood’ moniker.

The poplar’s popularity has seen it spread mainly by vegetative means to bushland areas. However in recent years, hybridised varieties believed to have grown from seed, have been found running feral along the banks of Victoria’s Ovens River. Whether they are deliberately planted or have escaped the confines of gardens, poplars that take root near creeks, rivers or dams are particularly problematic. Unlike native Eucalypts, which lose their leaves relatively evenly throughout the year, poplars shed their leaves en masse in autumn. The soft leaves decompose far more rapidly than native micro-fauna can handle, and when large quantities of poplar leaves enter waterways, the resulting overload of organic matter boosts aquatic nutrient levels to a point where the water quality is reduced. This process is believed to be a cause of blue-green algae – a known livestock toxin.

Decomposition of leaf matter from Poplars is believed to cause blue-green algae in waterways.

Poplars don’t have to be located near water to misbehave. Those growing some distance from waterways have sent decomposing leaf litter further afield through drainage systems and on the wind. In addition, the Department of Agriculture advise that the water-seeking roots of the poplar can pose a serious threat to building foundations as well as water and sewerage pipes, which makes them a poor choice around stable complexes.

Eradicating poplars involves removing seedlings by hand and felling larger trees, painting the stumps with a mix of one part glyphosate and two parts water. The glyphosate mix must be applied quickly as the exposed timbers seal within minutes of the tree being felled, preventing chemical penetration. Undiluted glyphosate can also be injecting into the tree’s stem. Both methods should be used in spring and summer when tree growth is active.

Once poplars are removed, the area is vulnerable to erosion and further weed infestation, so it’s important to replant the area – preferably with less troublesome native species.